La Sirena en las Olas

 I have spent the greater part of my life believing that a mermaid cannot be tied down to a board. Or any apparatus for that matter. I have a general rule which is the more equipment and paraphernalia which detracts from my unshackled body the less inclined I am to undertake. This is what has stood in my way between scuba diving but led to my various (once in Thailand, and then watching youtube videos with Zohara) pursuits in to free diving.

I love coconuts, I don't know how it relates to surfing but no words can express how much love I have for drinking coconuts.

 About surfing- is anything more meditative, expressive, celebratory of your WHOLE body and all of it's abilities?! So deportista? So free? So liberating? So intuitive? So strong? So peaceful? So exhilarating? So OCEAN?
 S o  b e a u t i f u l?

It's sport, it's exercise, it's mediation, it's trust, it's meditation, it's strong, it's patience, it's instinctive, it's thrilling, it's empowering.

The more you do, the better you get. you see yourself getting it more and more. Never give up, get back at it. Get crushed, get dunked, get smashed, get scared, get bored, get cold, get wrecked/crevee/exhausted and completely numb in the arms, get all the salt chapping your lips and  get experience and keep running back for more.

Since I started surfing and I wasn't immediatebly good at it, and I tend to not like things that I am not instantly good at, I have learnt patience and humility and I am proud to continue to LOVE surfing more like a passionate lover even though it makes me work for it to love me back

Who wants something in life which comes too easily? All things worth having are worth fighting for.

I've also developed a theory that you (read: I) need to be washed out a approximately 5,000-10,000 times before you have got your shit together. So, I embrace every time I get knocked off, get knocked down because with these times it's one less time standing between me and my accomplished surfer chick. COME AT ME.

One good thing is being a strong mermaid which prepares you for paddling like mad!!!!!

When I was living in Thailand and I met the Muay Thai fighters, we talked about what each of us were doing in Koh Samui. I said I taught swimming. Taxi told me he could TELL I was a professional swimmer: for my back, ie: the pronounced muscles of my back.
Does anyone want that compliment? Maybe body builders.
Maybe less, sexy young women (those of whom are not in the body building profession)

And have the thighs and back of a Greek God.

OR it wouldn't have been so unfortunate if I was indeed or had ever been a professional swimmer. However, de hecho, I teach babies how to sing lullabies and submerge their heads without crying. I make water safety fun, I teach Asian sub continent patriots who have NEVER been in water how to enter the pool, how to float on their backs, how to not drown and give children and adults confidence in the water and being able to swim. However, this is far removed from training 8 hours a day 6 days a week to be a professional swimmer and to warrant a back like mine. Maybe it's one of my body parts (like my thighs) which bare similarities to an Ancient God, and I do emphasize, God- not Goddess.